If you are looking for a low massing plant with purple/maroon fall color this is the plant. Waxweed, Cuphea viscosissima, has tiny purple flowers starting in July but is still blooming in October when the leaves start to turn red. Fall color continues until frost. It makes a great edge planting along paths and fences. I like to plant it with a few marigolds for a nice fall display. Waxweed is popular with the pollinators. The flowers are small but the entire plant is sticky which attracts many small insects. The flower is tubular so hummingbirds will also visit the blooms. The stickiness can sometimes be a nuisance when gardening. After weeding in the waxweed bed I often find pieces of the plant stuck to my legs and arms. Plants grow to be about 2 ft tall and wide. Since they grow from seed each year I always need to transplant some out of the paths and back into the garden. They are easy to pull out if there are too many plants. Waxweed requires full sun but is very tolerant of a variety of moisture conditions. Since it is an annual you will need to collect seeds if you want to introduce it to new areas. Seed ripen throughout the bloom period and fall to the ground. Harvesting seeds can be a sticky task. I have found the easiest way is to put a tray under the plant and gently shake it. Also, at the end of the season I pull all the plants out by the roots and beat them into an empty trash can to collect any remaining seeds before throwing the plants into the compost. Seeds can be spread immediately in the new planting bed. Plants can also be grown in the greenhouse but in my experience they are more robust if sown directly. This native annual is hard to come by at the garden store. The best way to get it is to borrow some seeds from a friend.

I have been working on a fun little project we are calling the infinity rain garden. It is a set of two rain gardens that were originally created with a grant from the Deer Creek Watershed Alliance.   The raingardens are out in the middle of the lawn at the lowest points in order to absorb water and make the yard less soggy and more usable. We connected the two gardens with a mulch border and infinite loop as a barrier against weeds getting into the gardens and as a meditation walking path. The path is short but since it is a loop one can go around as many times as needed. In the intersection of the two loops there is a special symbolic stone placed that will be passed twice each circuit. Originally this garden was created to serve one function, of absorbing rainwater, but as it develops over time it takes on more functions, as a focal point to draw you out into the yard, a space for meditation, and a refuge for pollinators. The Deer Creek watershed covers an area between Clayton, Glendale, and Creve Coeur. If you live in this area I strongly encourage you to look into this grant opportunity. https://www.deercreekalliance.org/cost-share

Every year in summer our gardens can start looking a little out of control. The tall plants are flopping, ground covers are invading the paths, seedlings are popping up everywhere. Just take a deep breath and remember, it is OK to kill the plants. Just because you bought a plant and lovingly placed it in the garden does not mean that it can become an out of control thug and still get a free ride. In my garden plants must follow my rules because I'm the garden queen. There are many ways to get rid of plants that are in the wrong place without killing them. Try moving them to another area in the garden. Taller plants may not flop so much if they are placed with other tall plants to provide support or against a fence. Ground covers that have covered too much ground can be divided and planted where they have more space to roam. Alternatively, give your plants to friends and neighbors. Everyone likes free plants and you have plenty. Bring your plants to a plant swap and send them to a good home. Lastly, don't forget, it is OK to kill your plants. Just pull them out and send them to the compost pile. It is OK. Each garden plant deserves enough space to fully develop. Don't crowd your species so close together that they are cramping their style. Thin out the aggressive growers. Keep your plants within the boundaries you set for them and don't let them crowd the path. Cut taller plants back short in early summer. Late summer bloomers can be cut back so they don't flop and will still bloom. Plants along the path can be cut back away from the path to encourage them to grow in the other direction. If a plant just isn't working in a space, get rid of it. It is your garden, you are in charge. Originally published in 2016

In early spring when green leaves just begin to show themselves out of the ground it is time for an important task. This is the best time to dig up spring flowering plants and move them to other parts of the garden. Plants to move include, ferns, ginger, solomons seal, trilliums, bluebells, celandine poppy, bloodroot, etc. As the ground warms the plant will send out its first green growth and is easiest to move when it is less then an inch of growth above the ground. Since these plants are clump forming the plants along the edge of the clump can be dug to start clumps elsewhere or dig out the whole clump and divide it up to replant in appropriate locations. Use a shovel or garden fork to gently lift out the plant from below and gently break it apart from the parent clump. Replant immediately at the same depth to limit drying out. This is also a good opportunity to remove any stubborn weeds that have embedded themselves in between the root systems. When replanting clumps all roots need to be completely surrounded by soil which can sometimes be tricky since they are twisted around each other. Sprinkle some loose soil on top and water it in to get soil into all crevasses. Check on transplants daily and keep moist and covered with soil until established.

Few blooms are better than Rattlesnake master for attracting the most pollinators. All types of bees, butterflies, and wasps find the flower irresistible and will compete for a spot to explore each bloom. Spiky white blooms in June through August top a 3-5 ft tall plant that looks like it would be found in an arid dessert. Rattlesnake master can be found in local prairies and grows well in sunny gardens in dry to average soil. The name comes from the belief that the plant repels rattlesnakes although I'm not aware of any scientific evidence of it. The fibrous leaves of Rattlesnake master are collected by crafters to weave into baskets and to twist into a strong rope from the time of early settlers. The dried blooms make long lasting cut flowers for fall arrangements. Beware if you use the seed heads in the wreath on the front door there will be tons of babies popping up around the front doorstep. Seedling plants pull easily in the first growing season but will develop a long taproot and become a headache to dig out later. Rattlesnake master seeds are devoured by gold finches that will flock to a nice sized patch in the garden. This unique plant will stand all through the winter offering perches for birds, over wintering space for beneficial insects, and a decorative look to the winter garden.

The plant disease called aster yellows seems to be hitting St Louis pretty hard this year. It thrives in cool wet weather which we have had plenty of this spring. Aster yellows will effect many common garden plants, in my garden it is on the purple coneflowers and black eyed Susan's. Aster yellows is caused by a leafhopper that transmits a  phytoplasma to the plant that causes it to deform. The plant will be deformed by having mini flowers sticking out of the flower head, looking chlorotic, and twisting growth. The only way to keep the disease from spreading to other plants is to remove the infected plants, and don't put them in the compost. It is hard for me to rip out a plant but I remind myself that it is no longer able to perform it's ecological function and may spread the disease. I made myself a nice bouquet of aster yellows infected flowers for my dinning room table while I was at it. In addition to aster yellows there is a similar looking deformity that is caused by a mite living in the flower head. These plants will have a normal looking foliage and flower heads except for a deformity in the center of the head. If the plant is infected with the mite the flower head can be removed and not the whole plant. More info http://www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/gardens-gardening/your-garden/help-for-the-home-gardener/advice-tips-resources/pests-and-problems/diseases/viruses/aster-yellows.aspx http://extension.missouri.edu/phelps/documents/Horticulture_News/AstersYellowsDieases.pdf

Happy Earth Day everyone! I hope you take some time this month to reflect on the choices you make and how they impact the planet for good or bad. Planting native plants is an easy way to make a positive difference for the earth by providing habitat for the birds and insects. The humming birds have arrived and the monarch butterflies are on their way. Make sure that this little patch of earth you are in charge of provides the resources they need to live. Here is a photo of my happy earth day Blue Wild Indigo that was given to me six years ago at the Forest Park Earth Day celebration. It is doing great and is a favorite with the bumble bees. I'm looking forward to going again this year to see what new plant I can bring home. Maybe I will see you there...

I recently had a bad experience with an irritating plant. I had a rash and blisters form on my legs after spending the day pulling weeds. I didn't notice what plant caused the rash but the symptoms seems to match wild parsnip exposure. When the sap of wild parsnip gets on skin it doesn't cause an immediate reaction until the skin is exposed to sunlight. The plant sap and the sunlight combined causes burns on the skin that will blister. The reaction is called phytophotodermatitis. My experience was an unpleasant one and I will be more careful to wear long pants and wash any exposed skin immediately in the future. I often have many small irritations on my skin from the plants I come into contact with. Poison ivy has given me many rashes in my life and I'm very careful around it. When I find poison ivy in my garden I pull it out using a bag over my hand in the same method used to pick up dog poop. I bag it up and throw it away.  Another plant that I get a rash from is Japanese Hops. It is an annual vine with many spines. The spiny vines grab at my skin and leave me with tinny itching bumps for a few days. Last week I was cutting back iron weed and ended up with a rash on my arms from the fuzz of the stems as I hauled them off to the compost pile. Many plants have spines or irritating fuzz to protect themselves from being eaten. It also deters the gardener from pulling them if they cause a rash. My advice is learn which plants irritate you and how to recognize them at a young age so they don't get a foothold in the garden. Most skin irritations go away after I wash or are gone the next day. If I have a lasting rash I like to use creams that numb the skin, aloe, or an anti itch cream. With this latest rash I had from the wild parsnip I found it difficult to find information about the rash and how to treat it. There are a million different opinions about how to treat poison ivy but very few sources about wild parsnip. I even went to my doctor and she had never heard of wild parsnip. My recommendation for dealing with a wild parsnip rash is to use lots of aloe and ice packs for relief. Keep skin cool and not exposed to sunlight. I received steroids from my doctor which helped to give me relief from the allergic reaction right away. It took about two weeks for the rash to run it's course but I hear that it can return after being exposed. I will have to remember to wear long pants for the rest of the year.

My favorite plant this month are the Asters. I'm not going to try to pick a favorite Aster because they are all special in some way. Asters get a bad rap because they are tall and flop over and like to spread and bloom just when you gave up on them ever doing anything useful. But when they do finally bloom they are the gem of the garden and you are so glad to have them. Asters provide food for a lot of caterpillars without even looking bad. They are host to American Lady, Cabbage White, Common Buckeye, Painted Lady, Pearl Crescent, Question Marks, Viceroy, Skippers, Sulphurs, Admirals, and Swallowtails. Since the flowers bloom so late in the season Aster is a very important food source for migrating butterflies and last meal for bees. The fluffy seeds come after many other food sources have been depleted and migrating and over wintering birds depend on the seed for winter food. Due to their size and tendencies to fall over Asters are often planted in large groups. Asters look great mixed in with grasses like little blue stem. Keeping a good density of stems helps keep everyone standing up. Many gardeners also give their Asters and other fall blooming plants a good trimming in May to help them grow more densely and shorter. Picking the right Aster for your space can be challenging since their are so many to choose from. Some prefer shade or sun. Some grow more bushy with many small flowers and some have bigger flowers at the top. Asters range in color from pink, white, blue and purple. Some species spread faster then others using rhizomes and seeds. Don't just judge by the pretty flower, match all other factors to your site. The easiest way to pick an Aster is to find one you like in your friends garden and ask for it, I'm sure they have some extra to share.

River Oats (Chasmanthium latifolium) When most plants have succumbed to gravity and fallen into the frozen February mud the river oats still stand tall waving their seeds in the breeze. I love to walk through a river bottom of river oats that remind me of a waving sea as they bend in the breeze and make a rustling sound as I push my way through. River Oats are also know as Sea Oats or the very descriptive Fish-on-a-string. They also make great cut plants for your winter arrangements. However, a word of caution! River Oats will take over your entire yard if you let them, they are very aggressive when they are happy. You will probably have regrets if you plant this plant in your flower bed of your small urban lot. The plant will spread from a single plant to a large clump within a year and start growing out of your compost pile and anywhere else the seeds fall. A great use for river oats is in drainage ditches or honeysuckle choked stream banks. I have an intermittent stream/drainage ditch behind my yard that was formerly covered in bush honeysuckle, winter creeper, and Japanese hops. After removing these invasives I planted river oats and Elderberry to help revegetate the slope. In areas with frequent flooding it is important to get new plants established as quickly as possible after removing unwanted plants so that the soil will not wash away. River oats is perfect for holding down slopes because it establishes quickly and has a strong root system. It tolerates wet soils and periodic flooding as well as hot dry summers as long as it has some shade. River Oats also grows densely enough to crowd out those pesky honeysuckle resprouts. Another alternative to river oats is Beakgrain. Beakgrain also requires shade and is flood tolerant. Beakgrain is slightly less aggressive and shorter with the same arching habit. Beakgrain is also more difficult to find at the garden center. These two plants are prime examples of putting the right plant in the right place. The right place for River Oats is a moist woodland river bottom area where it is free to spread.

Early spring is a excellent time to pull honeysuckle. It is easy to spot as the leaves burst before other shrubs. Many of our forests are filled with a green hazy right now, unfortunately it is all honeysuckle. Now that the soil has thawed and frequent rains keep it nice and soft it is a good time to pull honeysuckle out by the roots. Young honeysuckle shrubs that are 3ft or less can be pulled up by hand. Instead of going straight down, the honeysuckle roots branch out sideways just beneath the soil which makes them easier to pull out. When pulling up honeysuckle it is ok if some roots break off as long as the crown, the part where the above and below ground parts meet, is fully removed. Larger honeysuckle may require tools and strong backs to remove later but right now remove the young ones so that they never become a problem in the future. I scout my garden regularly this time of year for the hundreds of inch tall honeysuckle that the birds have planted in my yard from their droppings. The few that I missed last year are now a foot tall but I can still easily pull them out when the ground is soft. After pulling up a shrub I carefully replace the soil so that all the little overwintering critters won't be disturbed. I have learned the hard way that freshly pulled honeysuckle bushes will try to reroot themselves if their roots are in contact with the ground or a nice compost pile so I prop them upside down against the fence or pile them on the driveway until they have experienced a nice hot day. I want to get them out of the garden now before they have a chance to produce seeds and be spread to other areas. Even though my neighbor has a bush producing berries I feel I need to do my part to stop the spread. Here is a good video to watch about how to get rid of larger shrubs. Very large shrubs will require heavy equipment or at least a saw. https://www.deercreekalliance.org/root_docking_honeysuckle

My daughter and I were talking about the grocery store shortages and she commented that she wished she could be a rabbit and just eat the grass. Well, we can all be rabbits with the bounty of edible greens in our spring gardens. Looking around my garden I found several edible weeds including henbit, dead nettle, onion grass, violets, and dandelions. In my herb garden I found parsley, garlic chives, kale, and mint. For some fun color I included the edible flowers of dandelion, violet, and red bud. With all the nutrients from these hardy spring greens I should be able to avoid a trip to the grocery store for a few more days. Our family has an Easter tradition of including flowers in the Easter meal. The easiest flower to find on Easter is the violet because of the long bloom period. My garden grows plenty of violets and I harvest them often. The violet leaves are edible but the tastiest part, I think, is the flower. Some people candy or make a syrup of the violet flowers for attractive desserts. The violets I harvest go straight on a salad or as a pretty garnish on any side dish. Violets have a lot of vitamin A and C. Harvesting violets can be tedious. I have good luck picking the flowers by running them through my fingers to pull them off the stem. There are always some bugs that are living in the plants I pick so I set them out in the sun for a bit to encourage the bugs to crawl off. Whenever adding new foods to your diet, start small in case you have an allergic reaction. Also, if you are taking medicine that can be effected by your diet it is important to talk to your doctor before eating new things.