The native plant garden tour was last week. I volunteered at one garden demonstrating honeysuckle removal. I didn't have any takers to learn the great art of digging out honeysuckle, mostly polite smiles and saying that they have plenty of their own.  I was surprised by a few people who assumed I was offering to dig up a honeysuckle for them to take home and plant in their own garden. That was a great opportunity for education about this willy shrub that is invading our native landscapes. In general at these events you are surrounded by seasoned native plant gardeners with years of experience but then to happen upon a new person just starting on the great native plant adventure. Native plants can quickly become an obsession after you see a beautiful flower, ask a few questions, meet the right people, and fall head long into dreams of having your very own prairie. It is a wonderful experience. 2017 Native Plant Garden Tour Album

I made some native bee houses to sell at the Shaw Wildflower Market and have a few left over if you would like to purchase one for your garden or as a gift. They are about 6" square cedar and will attract many species of solitary bee to lay eggs, insuring a future generation of pollinators for your garden. I'm selling them for $15 each plus delivery fee if that is necessary. Below is a bee house I made last year. I set it on my front porch next to my house plants and just left it alone. Soon I noticed the bees filling in the holes with flower petals and mud. The mother bee selects a hole and lays an egg in the back, she then provides the egg with a ball of pollen for it to eat when it hatches. After that she seals up the hole with leaves, mud, or other materials from your garden. It takes several trips so it is fun to watch. Each hole will have several egg chambers. After the baby bees hatch they chew their way out and start pollinating your garden. The bees that like these houses are not honey bees and are very unlikely to sting you since they don't have a hive to defend. You can also make your own bee house by following these instructions. http://www.xerces.org/wp-content/uploads/2008/11/nests_for_native_bees_fact_sheet_xerces_society.pdf

Liriope, also called monkey grass, is commonly used as a ground cover between the sidewalk and the street. It is almost indestructible and will march forward until it meets a barrier.  Even though it looks like a grass or a sedge, Liriope is in the lily family. It grows similarly to daylily with tubers and sprouts from the roots. The best method of removal is to dig it up and do not compost. When removing  Liriope pick a day when the soil is easy to work because the root system is dense. Every piece of the roots needs to be removed and many small pieces will break off as it is wrestled from the earth. Check this space often throughout the next season for any resprouts. Good native alternatives to Liriope are sedges. Oak sedge is the same height and does well in shade. For a sunnier area Pennsylvania sedge can be used. Plants that fill in well and can tolerate being stepped on next to the street are the native wild strawberry or a solid crop of violets will also do the trick. If a short dense ground cover in the shade is desired try wild ginger.

To attract more wildlife to your yard you can plant a native shrub hedge. This plan furnishes shelter for wildlife while also providing fruit for birds and nectar for butterflies and bees. This plan includes 100ft x 25ft of space with 27 shrubs of 16 species. To attract the widest diversity of birds to the garden provide fruiting trees throughout the year. Fragrant sumac, golden current, fringe tree, service berry, and wild plum all have fruit during the summer months. In fall spicebush, pagoda dogwood, and sassafrass will attract migrating flocks of birds. For winter resident birds plant beauty berry, winter berry, and blackhaw viburnum to contribute fruit that lasts through the cold months. Providing sources of pollen and nectar throughout the year for insects will attract more butterflies and bees. Early nectar sources are spicebush, fragrant sumac, service berry, and wild plum. Wild hydrangea, New Jersey tea, and pagoda dogwood bloom in summer. Vernal witch hazel blooms in the middle of winter on warm days to produce necessary food for early insects. Hummingbirds will find nectar from golden current and red buckeye. Native shrubs are also valuable host plants for butterflies. The spicebush is the host plant for the spicebush swallowtail butterfly and the wafer ash is host to the giant swallowtail butterfly. The fragrant sumac is host for the red-banded hairstreak butterfly and the regal moth. On wild plum look for caterpillars of hairstreaks, viceroys, cecropia, and sphinxs moths. A landscape design is never one size fits all. Notice on this design that the plants that like a wetter environment are on the right and drier on the left. The plan can be adapted to fit the space available. Be sure to purchase shrubs that are the true native and not a cultivar that might not provide the same ecosystem services. Plant list: 4 beauty berry, Callicarpa americana, plant on 3ft centers 3 fragrant sumac, Rhus aromatica, plant on 3ft centers 2 wild hydrangea, Hydrangea arborescens, plant on 3ft centers 3 New Jersey tea, Ceanothus americanus, plant on 3ft centers 2 golden current, Ribes odoratum, plant on 4ft centers 1 vernal witch hazel, Hamamelis vernalis, plant on 6ft centers 2 winter berry, Ilex verticillata, plant on 10ft centers 2 spicebush, Lindera benzoin, plant on 10ft centers 1 red buckeye, Aesculus pavia, plant on 10ft centers 1 blackhaw viburnum, Viburnum prunifolium, plant on 12ft centers 1 pagoda dogwood, Cornus alternifolia, plant on 15ft centers 1 fringe tree, Chionanthus virginicus, plant on 15ft centers 1 service berry, Amelanchier arborea, plant on 15ft centers 1 wafer ash - Ptelea trifoliata, plant on 15ft centers 1 sassafrass, Sassafras albidum, plant on 15ft centers   1 wild plum, Prunus americana, plant on 20ft centers

Today it is cold and sleeting so I'm working on an indoor art project. I'm gluing photos of butterflies and their host plant to tiles to make a matching game. I frequently volunteer at plant related events either with Wild Ones, Bring Conservation Home, Master Naturalists, or STL Plant Swap. At these events it is nice to have a game to engage visitors at your booth. I have seen caterpillar butterfly  and also butterfly host plant matching games before. However, since it is usually the caterpillar that is the one that is host plant specific I thought it would make more sense to have the matching game include the caterpillar and plant. So I have included two photos of the insect and two of the plant so that everyone can see the caterpillar, butterfly, flower, and leaves. I picked out a 4 x 4 set of tiles, 16 total, so I can have 4 sets of butterfly/plant interactions. There are many specialist caterpillars to choose from so I limited my list to host plants that are good garden plants. Then I picked 4 that I had nice eye catching photos of. The final 4 were the Monarch and milkweed, of course, the black swallow tail and golden Alexander, spicebush swallow tail and spicebush,  and promethea silkmoth and sassafras. It was difficult to decide which 4 to choose but I guess I can add more tiles in the future. Although, 16 tiles might be hard enough. I glued the photos to the tiles using mod podge. This should make them last for a long time. If it rains at the event I wont have to worry about them being ruined. One problem with the other matching games was wind blowing the pieces away. These tiles will stay put and can even be used as paper weights for other items. I'm excited to take my new game to events next spring. I hope to see you there and you can try your luck at matching the tiles.

I have many childhood memories of going to summer outdoor concerts in the city park with my parents and catching fireflies with the rest of the kids in the field around the lake. Fireflies were also common in my backyard, on camping trips, and along the roads in the evening. Now when I see a firefly it is a rare occasion. I still see them in my backyard but not as many and for only a few nights in the summer. I want to bring them back. Besides being glowy, fireflies have other cool characteristics. First, they are beetles and the only bioluminescent creatures in Missouri. The larval fireflies do not have wings and glow continuously on the ground. A good place to see the glowing larva is along a prairie path after dark. Larva eat snails, slugs, earthworms, and other small things they can get their jaws on. The larva overwinter in the soil and in the spring metamorphose into the adult firefly. The flashing lights of the adults are the mating signal usually from the male in flight to the female on the ground. The different patterns of flashes help the males and females from the same species find each other. Some females mimic the flashing pattern of a different species to lure an unsuspecting male to her and then she eats him. There are many ways to garden for fireflies. Fireflies are very sensitive to light pollution because they can't see their mates flash pattern. Limit outdoor lights to provide dark areas for firefly courtship. Don't use pesticides. Fireflies are insects and can pick up pesticide residue off the plants they land on and from the soil when they overwinter. Check to see if your neighborhood participates in street spraying for mosquitoes. Ask if the insecticide used is harmful to fireflies. Most streets are sprayed at dusk right when the fireflies are emerging. Leave your garden soil undisturbed during the winter to protect overwintering larva. Fireflies appreciate native plantings as various heights for their courtship displays. Provide water and damp areas in the garden since fireflies are most commonly found near water sources. To learn more about firefly research visit https://xerces.org/2018/10/01/fireflies/

Sometimes plants grow too big for their pots before they are planted and the roots fill all the available space. When the pot is removed there are only roots holding the shape of the pot. This is called root bound. It is important to disrupt the circling roots before planting so that they grow out into the soil. Circling roots will get larger as they grow and can strangle the plant. Encouraging roots to grow out into the soil helps the plant have access to more nutrients and anchor in the soil. The roots can be untangled by hand to spread them out. If the taproot is circling it is very important to straighten it out if possible. Small circling roots can be sliced with a blade vertically. It is better to cut the root then to let it eventually strangle the plant. Make clean cuts to cause minimal scaring as the plant heals. Cutting off roots can be stressful to the new plant because it will not be able to take up as much water. Give extra care to a plant that had a severe root bound condition. Wilting may occur. When part of a plants root system is removed, removing an equal amount of the above ground portion of the plant will help with wilting. If the plant is a tree and branches can not be removed each leaf can be cut in half to reduce water loss through the leaves. In many cases even if the root system is damaged, the benefits of being in the soil with access to more water and nutrients will allow healthy growth without disturbing the above ground part of the plant.

If you are looking for a low massing plant with purple/maroon fall color this is the plant. Waxweed, Cuphea viscosissima, has tiny purple flowers starting in July but is still blooming in October when the leaves start to turn red. Fall color continues until frost. It makes a great edge planting along paths and fences. I like to plant it with a few marigolds for a nice fall display. Waxweed is popular with the pollinators. The flowers are small but the entire plant is sticky which attracts many small insects. The flower is tubular so hummingbirds will also visit the blooms. The stickiness can sometimes be a nuisance when gardening. After weeding in the waxweed bed I often find pieces of the plant stuck to my legs and arms. Plants grow to be about 2 ft tall and wide. Since they grow from seed each year I always need to transplant some out of the paths and back into the garden. They are easy to pull out if there are too many plants. Waxweed requires full sun but is very tolerant of a variety of moisture conditions. Since it is an annual you will need to collect seeds if you want to introduce it to new areas. Seed ripen throughout the bloom period and fall to the ground. Harvesting seeds can be a sticky task. I have found the easiest way is to put a tray under the plant and gently shake it. Also, at the end of the season I pull all the plants out by the roots and beat them into an empty trash can to collect any remaining seeds before throwing the plants into the compost. Seeds can be spread immediately in the new planting bed. Plants can also be grown in the greenhouse but in my experience they are more robust if sown directly. This native annual is hard to come by at the garden store. The best way to get it is to borrow some seeds from a friend.

I have been working on a fun little project we are calling the infinity rain garden. It is a set of two rain gardens that were originally created with a grant from the Deer Creek Watershed Alliance.   The raingardens are out in the middle of the lawn at the lowest points in order to absorb water and make the yard less soggy and more usable. We connected the two gardens with a mulch border and infinite loop as a barrier against weeds getting into the gardens and as a meditation walking path. The path is short but since it is a loop one can go around as many times as needed. In the intersection of the two loops there is a special symbolic stone placed that will be passed twice each circuit. Originally this garden was created to serve one function, of absorbing rainwater, but as it develops over time it takes on more functions, as a focal point to draw you out into the yard, a space for meditation, and a refuge for pollinators. The Deer Creek watershed covers an area between Clayton, Glendale, and Creve Coeur. If you live in this area I strongly encourage you to look into this grant opportunity. https://www.deercreekalliance.org/cost-share

Every year in summer our gardens can start looking a little out of control. The tall plants are flopping, ground covers are invading the paths, seedlings are popping up everywhere. Just take a deep breath and remember, it is OK to kill the plants. Just because you bought a plant and lovingly placed it in the garden does not mean that it can become an out of control thug and still get a free ride. In my garden plants must follow my rules because I'm the garden queen. There are many ways to get rid of plants that are in the wrong place without killing them. Try moving them to another area in the garden. Taller plants may not flop so much if they are placed with other tall plants to provide support or against a fence. Ground covers that have covered too much ground can be divided and planted where they have more space to roam. Alternatively, give your plants to friends and neighbors. Everyone likes free plants and you have plenty. Bring your plants to a plant swap and send them to a good home. Lastly, don't forget, it is OK to kill your plants. Just pull them out and send them to the compost pile. It is OK. Each garden plant deserves enough space to fully develop. Don't crowd your species so close together that they are cramping their style. Thin out the aggressive growers. Keep your plants within the boundaries you set for them and don't let them crowd the path. Cut taller plants back short in early summer. Late summer bloomers can be cut back so they don't flop and will still bloom. Plants along the path can be cut back away from the path to encourage them to grow in the other direction. If a plant just isn't working in a space, get rid of it. It is your garden, you are in charge. Originally published in 2016

In early spring when green leaves just begin to show themselves out of the ground it is time for an important task. This is the best time to dig up spring flowering plants and move them to other parts of the garden. Plants to move include, ferns, ginger, solomons seal, trilliums, bluebells, celandine poppy, bloodroot, etc. As the ground warms the plant will send out its first green growth and is easiest to move when it is less then an inch of growth above the ground. Since these plants are clump forming the plants along the edge of the clump can be dug to start clumps elsewhere or dig out the whole clump and divide it up to replant in appropriate locations. Use a shovel or garden fork to gently lift out the plant from below and gently break it apart from the parent clump. Replant immediately at the same depth to limit drying out. This is also a good opportunity to remove any stubborn weeds that have embedded themselves in between the root systems. When replanting clumps all roots need to be completely surrounded by soil which can sometimes be tricky since they are twisted around each other. Sprinkle some loose soil on top and water it in to get soil into all crevasses. Check on transplants daily and keep moist and covered with soil until established.

Few blooms are better than Rattlesnake master for attracting the most pollinators. All types of bees, butterflies, and wasps find the flower irresistible and will compete for a spot to explore each bloom. Spiky white blooms in June through August top a 3-5 ft tall plant that looks like it would be found in an arid dessert. Rattlesnake master can be found in local prairies and grows well in sunny gardens in dry to average soil. The name comes from the belief that the plant repels rattlesnakes although I'm not aware of any scientific evidence of it. The fibrous leaves of Rattlesnake master are collected by crafters to weave into baskets and to twist into a strong rope from the time of early settlers. The dried blooms make long lasting cut flowers for fall arrangements. Beware if you use the seed heads in the wreath on the front door there will be tons of babies popping up around the front doorstep. Seedling plants pull easily in the first growing season but will develop a long taproot and become a headache to dig out later. Rattlesnake master seeds are devoured by gold finches that will flock to a nice sized patch in the garden. This unique plant will stand all through the winter offering perches for birds, over wintering space for beneficial insects, and a decorative look to the winter garden.